A celebratory feast for Monterey’s birthday

MONTEREY — The sun came out just in time to leave the June gloom behind Saturday at the 88th Annual La Merienda in Monterey.

The event, which celebrated Monterey's 249th birthday, took place in the Memory Garden at Custom House Plaza, which was decorated with piñatas and fluffy flowers made out of brightly-shaded crepe paper. That's where the approximately 400 attendees including community members, leaders and luminaries both served up and partook in a feast while honoring the city's history and culture.

Sponsored annually by the Monterey History and Art Association, the event was sold out for the third straight year.

"Just look around – this is what this community is about," said Rep. Jimmy Panetta, who was on hand to serve up the fixings created by restaurateur Chris Shake, his crew from Old Fisherman's Grotto at Fisherman's Wharf and the barbecue committee. "They're here to help out, acknowledge our history and to give support."

Panetta was next to Monterey County District Attorney Jeannine Pacioni who was at the La Merienda for her first time. She was "thrilled" to be at what she described "a local custom that brings together those who love to support Monterey."

It was also the first time for Monterey County Supervisor Mary Adams, who said she was just excited to be serving up barbecue.

That's while Panetta's dad Leon, the former Secretary of Defense, stood just a few feet away getting ready to carve the filet mignon in the middle of the buffet line.

For the senior Panetta, La Merienda represents memories of family and growing up in Monterey.

"I was born and raised in Monterey – this is my home and I've always had a tremendous feeling of being at home when I'm in Monterey," said Panetta. "Even when I was in Washington I always looked forward to coming home.

"Monterey has an ability to celebrate its birthday as a reminder of its rich history," he added.

The first La Merienda was held in 1929, two years prior to the Monterey History and Art Association being founded. The festivities commemorate the founding of Monterey in 1770 by Junipero Serra and Capt. Gaspar de Portola. The two celebrated their arrival on the Monterey Peninsula with a picnic overlooking Monterey Bay.

"It's such a wonderful celebration of our cultural past – keeping it alive with decorations, clothing and food," explained Mary Alice Fettis, a life-long Monterey resident who has been coming to the event since she was 4 years old. "It's all part of our multi-cultural history."

Next year, the city is celebrating its 250th year and will be holding an even bigger soiree at Colton Hall, which can accommodate more attendees than Memory Garden.

While Fettis noted that in the 1940s and ‘50s "Everybody who was anybody was here," she also said that during World War II, La Merienda didn't take place for a couple of years.

"It's always been ‘locally sourced' however – long before ‘organic' was ever in our vernacular," she added.

"It really is a party within a party," explained co-chair Annamarie Della Sala Stanton, who noted that along with the "barbecue buffet extravaganza" as it's been dubbed, each table had its own leader and attendants who could bring additional dishes.

Maryjane Davi Flagg said her table was in honor of her aunt Anita Ferrante who recently passed away at the age 91. Ferrante had been a long-time member of the Monterey History and Art Association,

Said Davi Flagg's friend Bella Lofasco, "It's so lovely to be in this historic garden and celebrate all the beautiful Mexican culture."

Monterey Mayor Clyde Roberson recalled first speaking at La Merienda in 1983. (Wendy Brickman — Special to the Herald)

Mayor Clyde Roberson spoke briefly on the podium, recounting how he was elected mayor the first time on May 21, 1983, and spent June 1 of that year right there in those gardens.

"You can get 35 years of Monterey history in a book and in a building but La Merienda is an example of it being alive," said Roberson.

This year, former mayor Mayor Dan Albert fawned as he looked on at his granddaughter Ava Albert, who was chosen as La Favorita. The honor goes to a young woman with historic ties to Monterey.

That's while Shake won the Laura Bride Powers Award. given annually by the History and Art Association for all his contributions.

"That was a total surprise," said Shake, who was too busy "trying to up his game" as he put it, with his filet mignon main course.

"It just seems like every year it gets better and better," said Della Sala Stanton, about the overall event. "But it will always be about celebrating the founding of Monterey."